At Ynyshir in Wales, Gareth Ward Turns Fine Dining Into a 28-Course Party

Set amidst the rolling green landscapes of North Wales, Ynyshir stands as a distinctive beacon of culinary innovation under the leadership of chef Gareth Ward. Since the 2016 transformation of the 15th-century former country house hotel, Ynyshir has evolved beyond the traditional concept of fine dining to offer a multi-sensory 28-course tasting menu experience that pairs gastronomic precision with an immersive atmosphere.

Ward, who co-owns the establishment, has shaped Ynyshir into a destination that intertwines a fervent passion for food with a vibrant, almost festival-like environment. The restaurant’s location, accessible only via narrow country lanes near Machynlleth, offers guests not just a meal but a retreat, with accommodations and interiors personally designed by Ward and his wife, Amelia Eiriksson. The dark-hued common areas, rustic decor including fur coats and medieval-inspired chairs, and an outdoor fire pit branded with Ynyshir’s name reflect Ward’s unconventional and personal aesthetic.

Central to the dining experience is a dynamic soundtrack curated by a dedicated live DJ who spins vinyl records in the open kitchen. This continuous build-up of music sets the energetic tempo for the service, aligning closely with the rhythm at which the courses are presented. The DJ’s role underscores Ward’s philosophy that the restaurant’s ambiance should be as thoughtfully crafted as its cuisine, creating an environment where staff and guests alike are enveloped in a collective enthusiasm.

Ward’s culinary journey began unexpectedly when he took a job at a local pub in Durham, England, eventually discovering a deep-seated passion for cooking. His formative years included stints at prestigious British establishments, culminating in a sous chef position at Restaurant Sat Bains. His eventual move to Ynyshir marked a turning point where he seized the opportunity to imprint his culinary vision on a traditional Welsh venue.

The hallmark of Ynyshir’s menu is its breadth and meticulous orchestration. Inspired by Japanese dining principles, Ward focuses on delivering intense, perfectly crafted small bites that collectively build into a cohesive narrative. This approach ensures diners leave satisfied rather than wanting, with the menu’s flow carefully choreographed to balance flavors and textures throughout the lengthy progression.

Ward’s commitment to sourcing is truly global and precise, often requiring months of planning to secure premium ingredients. Notably, the restaurant serves A5 Wagyu beef exclusively from female cows, a decision born from Ward’s discovery of the superior tenderness and flavor profile of female Wagyu. This specialized sourcing involves collaboration with select Japanese farms and suppliers, highlighting the lengths taken to maintain quality.

Japanese influence permeates Ynyshir beyond ingredients; Ward’s multiple visits to Japan have shaped his appreciation for craftsmanship and detail, though he emphasizes that his cuisine remains his own interpretation rather than traditional Japanese cooking. The menu often features raw fish preparations alongside globally inspired dishes such as Thai-seasoned lobster and Cantonese-style squab, while still integrating elements native to Wales like locally produced dairy and birch syrup.

The restaurant has steadily gained recognition for its innovation and quality, earning two Michelin stars in 2022—the first Welsh establishment to do so. As Ynyshir approaches its tenth anniversary, Ward envisions further expansions including more casual dining options and artisan collaborations, underscoring his desire to continue evolving the concept.

Despite the acclaim, Ward maintains a grounded perspective on his work, prioritizing authenticity and passion over universal appeal. He insists on serving only what he personally enjoys and believes in, reflecting an artistic integrity that resonates throughout every facet of Ynyshir—from the food and music to the handcrafted silverware forged by an in-house blacksmith.

Gareth Ward’s Ynyshir exemplifies a modern renaissance in fine dining, where culinary excellence meets immersive experience, crafted through a blend of global influences, personal vision, and an unrelenting commitment to quality. As the restaurant looks toward potential three-star Michelin recognition, it continues to redefine what it means to dine with intention and joy in Wales and beyond.