A visit to Verona during opera season: a city rich in treasures

Verona, a northern Italian city steeped in history and less frequented than nearby Venice, comes alive each summer with a remarkable opera season that runs from June to September. The event features an ambitious lineup of five operas, two ballets, and eight symphonic concerts, all staged in the Arena di Verona, a Roman amphitheatre notable for its age, capacity, and cultural significance.

The Arena, which predates even Rome’s Colosseum, seats approximately 15,000 spectators and has hosted legendary performances since Maria Callas’s debut there in 1947. It remains a prominent cultural venue, having been the site for both the closing ceremony of the Winter Olympics and the opening ceremony of the 2026 Winter Paralympics. This ancient amphitheatre carries visible marks of its gladiatorial past, including remnants of defensive walls and the gladiators’ entrance known as Porta Triumphalis.

Beyond its musical prestige, Verona offers a rich tapestry of history visible throughout the city. Archaeological traces permeate daily life, from Roman mosaics beneath modern shops on streets like Via Pellicciai and Via Mazzini, to the stone foundations of the Roman forum exposed beneath bars in the central Piazza Erbe. This square also bears silent witness to the city’s wartime scars, with monuments commemorating early civilian bombings during World War I.

Verona’s Jewish heritage is marked by plaques and preserved synagogues near the historic ghetto, revealing layers of the city’s multifaceted cultural past. The Capitular Library, dating back to the fifth century and regarded as one of the world’s oldest libraries, houses over 100,000 volumes. Its extensive collection survived significant damage during World War II, a fact brought poignantly to life by the presence of shrapnel embedded in some damaged books.

A visit to the Giusti Gardens offers a contrasting blend of nature and Renaissance artistry. Located across the Adige River, the gardens feature formal cypress-lined avenues, statuary, and an 18th-century maze. From its highest vantage point, visitors can enjoy sweeping views of Verona. The gardens’ association with figures like Mozart, Ruskin, and Goethe underscores their historical and cultural resonance.

The legacy of notable local families, such as the Della Scalas who governed for over a century starting in the late 13th century, is immortalized in ornate Gothic tombs near the church of Santa Maria Antica. Verona’s many churches also provide a window into its spiritual life, with Sunday bells resonating throughout the city and richly frescoed interiors illustrating centuries of religious tradition.

Culinary experiences in Verona complement its artistic and historical offerings. The recently inaugurated Monteleone 21 winery, designed by architect Giovanna Mar and operated by Masi Winery, presents a modern architectural marvel amid the Veneto countryside. Visitors can explore expansive cellars with oak barrels and enjoy tastings featuring Franciacorta sparkling wine, Soave, and the regionally celebrated Amarone, paired with local delicacies.

Within the city, diverse dining options range from innovative garden-side restaurants to traditional trattorias serving regional specialties like risotto all’Amarone and river-fresh seafood. Gelateria La Romana continues to delight with its artisanal gelatos, maintaining a legacy since 1947. For more formal dining, Ristorante Maffei, situated in a historic cardinal’s palace, offers a menu that highlights local produce and features a well-curated wine cellar.

The highlight of the season is the staging of Verdi’s La traviata, presented with a fresh directorial vision by Scottish opera director Paul Curran. The production, featuring soprano Gilda Fiume, introduces theatrical elements inspired by the Moulin Rouge, blending historical ambiance with contemporary artistic flair. Experiencing opera in the open-air Arena, without the need for amplification, provides an immersive sound and sight experience that connects audiences to Verona’s enduring cultural vitality.

Verona’s unique fusion of ancient history, world-class opera, scenic gardens, and rich culinary traditions offers visitors an immersive cultural journey. The city’s opera season not only celebrates musical excellence but also invites exploration of a living historical landscape, making it a compelling destination for enthusiasts of music, history, and Italian heritage alike.